 |
Addu Atoll
Hithadoo top left, Gan bottom left |
The Dynamo project has been shut down 6 weeks early because of police and mob violence in Addu Atoll. Courtney has brought her three students home. She is trying to determine when it will be safe to send the radar engineers back to in Hithadoo in order to shut down and ship the Smart-R radar truck back to the United States.
In 2008 the people of the Maldives installed their first democratically elected president, Mohamed Nasheed, affectionately known as Anni. He replaced the dictator Maumoon Gayoom, who had ruled the country for thirty years. On February 7 Nasheed was deposed in a coup by some parts of the military and the police, backed by Gayoom's party. Nasheed was taken away at gunpoint; reports are that he was beaten. The same night, insurgents took over the national TV station. Vandals broke into the National Museum and destroyed Buddhist treasures from the Maldives' pre-Islamic past. Nasheed's former vice president became president, and has appointed many of Gayoom's men to key positions
 |
| Courtney and student David inside Smart-R |
The following Friday after prayers, Nasheed led a march through Male with thousands of supporters. Many women participated in what was supposed to be a peaceful protest. Police and soldiers attacked the marchers viciously. The head of Nasheed's Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) was taken to the intensive care unit of the local hospital. He was then placed temporarily on a no-fly list to prevent him from leaving the country to get medical care in Sri Lanka or India.
 |
| Guard station on spit with Smart-R |
In Addu City, the second largest city in the country and a stronghold of support for the Nasheed's MDP party, mobs reacted by burning down the police stations in Gan, Feydhoo, Maradhoo, and Hithadoo. They torched the police training facility in Hithadoo along with the courthouses in Hithadoo and Maradhoo. They burned police vehicles and tossed them into the ocean. In response, police arrested the entire city council of Addu City. The mayor is in hiding. There are many reports of police dragging MDP party members out of their houses, beating them and spraying their eyes with pepper spray before arresting them. Because the police stations have been burned, prisoners are held on Coast Guard boats in the harbor at Gan.
 |
Volunteers painting wall of courthouse
preparing for SAARC Summit |
It is hard to describe how close together everything is on these narrow, crowded islands. The burned courthouse in Hithadoo is on same street as Maxine's preschool. We passed the police training academy everyday on the way to the spit where Courtney's radar is parked. We watched young police recruits practice water rescues on the beach off the spit. From Smart-R we could see the police station, now burned to the ground.
The police station at Gan is just past the mosque next to Equator Village, where Courtney's students and the other Western scientists were living. It is a half a mile from the airport where tourists land and then are whisked away by speedboat to their isolated luxury resorts.
One evening last week Courtney's students headed in their car from Equator Village to a restaurant in Feydhoo. In order to get to the restaurant, they had to pass the police station and cross a causeway onto the next island. A crowd was throwing stones at the Gan police station, situated right at the entrance to the causeway. They stopped throwing stones and told the students to turn their car back. As the students returned to Equator Village, they could see the stones begin to fly again. Later the police station was burned to the ground.
 |
| Tash playing cards with Maxine |
We have not heard from Tash, the rowing and swimming instructor who is now the only Westerner living in Hithadhoo. She works for the Ministry of Education in a government building just off the Link Road, and gets around by bicycle. Nor have we heard anything from Nasreena and her family. They have no links to politics or to the government that I know of, so I hope they are lying low. Marian, the British nutritionist, is back in England for a few months. She has not heard anything from her large adopted Maldivian family on Feydhoo. Marian had 4000 children's books stored in the Maradhoo courthouse ready for the children's library she had hoped to create on the island. The books were destroyed when the courthouse was burned.
 |
| Jamal with African Grey parrot |
 |
| Musa |
Jamal, our guardian angel in the Maldives, went with Courtney's students late at night when the violence began to help them shut down and secure the radar. Jamal had been a political prisoner along with Mohamed Nasheed during the reign of Gayoom. He has 8 brothers, including Musa, the grocer on Hithadoo. They are all in business. Musa, for instance, depends entirely on airplanes to bring the groceries he sells in the Multi Market. If the airlines are disrupted or controlled by hostile people, he is out of business. Jamal has reported to Courtney that he and his family are all right. .
Jamal's two sons, who are in their early twenties, work at government jobs at Gan airport--one as a weather technician and one as a security screener. When we visited Jamal's house, the son asked me , "What is democracy like in your country? We have only had it here for three years." I hemmed and hawed, not wanting to show cynicism. At the time I was still feeling a little foolish because I had paid the front office at Equator Village almost $25 to fax my ballot to the Clackamas County elections office for our November special election. How protected we are.